Glacier National Park: A Trip That Changed Me
My 2022 trip to Glacier National Park turned out to be one of the greatest experiences of my life. I walked on a glacier, stood in awe of the engineering marvel that is Going-to-the-Sun Road, and witnessed breathtaking sunrises and unforgettable wildlife encounters. But what made this trip truly transformative wasn’t just the scenery — it was the personal journey. I tent camped under the stars, hiked distances I had never attempted before, and did it all on my own. I faced fears I didn’t even know I had. And by confronting them, I came home a changed person — stronger, more confident, and more deeply connected to both nature and myself.
The most common question I get about trips like this is:
“Don’t you get lonely? Aren’t you afraid?”
Afraid of getting lost?
Of bears?
Of being assaulted?
Of breaking down?
The answer to all of those is: YES.
However, I refuse to let fear stop me from experiencing this amazing country and doing the things I love. That’s why I plan for the "just in case." Over the years, I’ve learned that being with someone else — male or female — doesn’t automatically make you safer. I’ve grown to trust and rely on myself, and honestly, I can’t remember the last time I felt lonely on a solo trip.
After 20 years in the bar business and another 20 in real estate, I have no trouble sparking up conversations or asking for help. And if you’ve never camped before, here’s a tip: campgrounds are full of people who love to chat and help out when needed.
Glacier National Park has over 700 miles of hiking trails — none of them with cell service. As a solo traveler, I knew the most important thing was to have a communication plan.
For my 11-day trip, I tent camped for 10 nights at Many Glacier Campground. Many Glacier is surrounded by mountains with no cell service, so I worked out a system with my dad and brothers. They downloaded the Zoleo App and every day, I sent them a message when I returned from my hike.
Zoleo is a satellite communicator that pairs with your phone to send texts or emails via satellite. It also has SOS and weather functions. It worked reliably throughout this trip. I also carried a satellite phone, though it’s harder to use when surrounded by trees. I chose to carry both since they operate on different satellite networks. I liked having redundant options in case of emergency.
My family knew if they didn’t hear from me within 24 hours, they needed to call 911. They had my campground details, site number, car rental information, and a list of the hikes I planned to do each day. I’m not usually that detailed, but better safe than sorry.
Planning my hikes:
I used a Hike734 map (I love his maps!) and the AllTrails Pro app. While AllTrails relies on user updates and isn’t perfect, it’s served me well across the country. Before I left home, I downloaded all my trail maps since no service = no downloads. I also carry paper maps either a Hike734 map or National Geographic map.
For my first night in Glacier, I car camped at Fish Creek Campground. Since I plan my trips far in advance, I tried (the minute reservations opened, 4 months ahead) to secure a spot at Many Glacier Campground, but didn’t land one for my first night. Luckily, I grabbed a spot starting my second night.
Fish Creek was fine, but it was almost two hours from where I wanted to be. I specifically chose Many Glacier because it’s close to the trailheads I wanted to attempt. Plus, it’s right next to the Swiftcurrent Inn, which has showers, laundry, and some food options.
When I return to Glacier — and I absolutely will — I’ll make sure to aim for Many Glacier Campground again.
Standing on the Grinnell Glacier after a 5+ mile hike up with a 2000+ft ascent. The sun is shining. Truly amazing.
This was the final hike of my Glacier trip, and without a doubt, the most spectacular. I know Hike734 ranks the Highline Trail as #1, but after hiking both, I wholeheartedly disagree.
The first couple of miles hug Swiftcurrent Lake. Since I started at sunrise, the scenery was truly beautiful — calm water, soft light, and a sense of peace that set the tone for the day. Then the ascent begins. It’s gradual over a few miles, so it doesn’t feel too challenging… though that last half-mile is tough. Still, nothing unmanageable.
Along the way, the trail is bursting with wildflowers and offers stunning views of Lake Josephine, and even more impressive views of the turquoise beauty of Grinnell Lake and the waterfalls that feed it. When the sun hits that lake just right, it’s absolutely show-stopping.
Because this is an out-and-back trail, you get to enjoy all of this twice. And of course, the glacier itself is massive. My AllTrails app said I hiked 14 miles — a bit shocking, as I’d never hiked that far before. The original trail is supposed to be about 10 miles, but due to bear activity, I had to take a detour that likely added a mile each way. Plus, I wandered around the glacier area for over an hour, which surely contributed to the extra distance.
The sounds, the smells, the air on the glacier… it’s hard to put into words. Since this was the last week of August, most of the snow had melted, revealing a huge pool of ice-cold blue water with visible icebergs floating. It’s incredible to think that just three months prior, there had been 80 feet of snow here. In fact, the full trail had only been open for about a month — this is normal for the area.
Some people chose to go swimming (crazy, in my opinion). I had no intention of joining them — way too cold, and I still had a 5-mile descent ahead of me. After a while, I noticed the blue, sunny skies had disappeared, replaced by thick, dark clouds rolling over the glacier. No one else seemed to care, but I started to get concerned. I don’t mind hiking in the rain, but a lightning storm on top of a mountain is definitely not my idea of fun. So, the moment I heard the first whisper of thunder, I started my descent.
The rain held off until my last ¼ mile, and even then, it was just a light drizzle. But by that point, I was exhausted and sore. I had started my trek at 7:30 am, and it was now after 4 pm. I went straight to the showers and then back to my tent. Not long after, the sky opened up and it poured buckets for hours. Luckily, I had an extra tarp over my tent, so I stayed completely dry. That said, a tarp doesn’t quiet the sound of rain hitting the tent — it’s loud, which is why I always bring headphones and a little TV.
Despite the exhaustion and the weather, the entire day was an amazing experience.
The view from Logan Pass as the sun rises
Highline Trail — Glacier National Park
When I arrived at Logan Pass, it was still dark, but the parking lot was already starting to fill up. Logan Pass itself is incredibly beautiful — plus it has good WiFi and flush toilets, which is a nice bonus. There are multiple trailheads that start here, and the sunrise was absolutely stunning.
This was going to be the longest hike I’d ever done, and I was pretty nervous. I walked around a bit before starting just to calm myself down. One piece of advice: I do not recommend starting this hike in the dark. The beginning of the trail follows a narrow cliff about 100 feet above the road, and there’s nothing to stop you from falling to the pavement below. The NPS provides what they consider a “rail,” but it’s really just a garden hose anchored to the mountain. That said, even though I’m afraid of heights, I was fine as long as I didn’t look down. The ledge you’re hiking on is a solid 3 to 4 feet wide.
Once I got going, I settled in. There were so many people on the trail — almost annoyingly so — but if you’re worried about getting lost, don’t be. There’s nowhere to go except forward along the trail.
The hike itself was absolutely beautiful. Because you’re starting at the top of the mountain, it’s relatively level for much of the way. The views are just breathtaking. Wildflowers were everywhere — pinks, blues, yellows. I couldn’t believe how many there were, even in late August.
There are a few spots where you need to be cautious because of water runoff that makes the trail slippery. At one point, I had to put on my rain gear to walk under a small waterfall — definitely an adventure! Watching the sunrise and how the light and shadows shifted as the day wore on was a highlight.
The Granite Park Chalet is about 7 miles in. I chose not to attempt the Grinnell Glacier overlook from there, and I’m glad I didn’t — I was really tired and sore by the end. I can’t imagine how I would have managed that extra push.
While I absolutely loved the Highline Trail, I’ll do it differently next time. After the Chalet, the hike is all downhill and honestly a bit boring. I did have about a mile entirely to myself, which is rare on such a popular trail — a little eerie, but peaceful.
Next time, I’ll plan to hike about 5 miles in and then turn back. The views are more spectacular in both directions, and the trail is wide enough to easily pass other hikers. Waiting for the shuttle was a hassle, and the 30-minute ride back to Logan Pass wasn’t much fun after such a long day. I’d rather hike back and enjoy more of those incredible views.
Virginia Falls not at the top yet
Three Falls Trail — Glacier National Park
This was the third hike I did on this trip. As usual, I arrived at the trailhead early and was surprised at how empty the parking lot was.
Baring Falls was the first stop. While the falls themselves were small, they were surprisingly powerful. What stood out to me most was how quiet it was — I didn’t see another person either on the hike there or at the falls themselves.
That changed once I reached St. Mary’s Falls. That’s when I realized there’s a shuttle stop and parking area not far above St. Mary’s Falls, which explains why most people seem to skip Baring Falls altogether. St. Mary’s Falls was definitely more beautiful, and there were plenty of people there… including, of course, a few idiots climbing all over the falls trying for the perfect selfie. I left before anyone fell in.
From there, I continued on to Virginia Falls. The trail was fairly even until I got close to the falls. While this trek wasn’t particularly difficult, it was hot, and there was little to no tree cover thanks to the scars left from a previous wildfire. It was easy to see the destruction that remained.
Within about a mile of Virginia Falls, the ascent began. The falls have three distinct levels, and each was serene and beautiful. As I climbed, the temperature noticeably cooled. I took my time, stopping now and then to admire the falls and the overall beauty of the area. The wildflowers were everywhere, and the cool breeze coming off the water was so refreshing. It made for a perfect spot to sit, have a little lunch, and hydrate.
The final ¼ mile was a steady climb up to the main falls. I have to say, Virginia Falls was one of the most beautiful waterfalls I’ve ever come across — tall, powerful, and flowing strongly even so late in the season. I can’t imagine how incredible these three falls must look in June, although I’m not sure the trail is even accessible then, considering that Going-to-the-Sun Road typically doesn’t fully open until mid-July due to snow.
It was easily 20 degrees cooler at the top compared to the bottom. I spent about an hour just relaxing, enjoying the cool air, and soaking in the beauty of it all before heading back.
On the way down between Virginia and St. Mary’s, I ran into a few other hikers who were curious about the trail. But again, from St. Mary’s back to Baring, I saw no one. It seems like hardly anyone does the full Three Falls Trail. When I returned, the parking lot was still nearly empty.
Sometimes you just have to stop on the tail and say thank you.
Fisher Cap Lake – Red Rock Falls – Bullhead Lake
Glacier National Park
This was a fantastic day hike with minimal elevation gain but killer views. After Red Rock Falls, I hardly saw another hiker. The trailhead starts at the Swiftcurrent Inn parking lot, conveniently right next to my campground Many Glacier. I still drove over and parked since I was camped on the far side of the grounds and planned to hit the showers right after the hike.
I skipped Fisher Cap Lake on the way in since it’s only about 0.25 miles from the trailhead and figured I’d catch it on the way back.
Red Rock Falls was gorgeous and, as expected, busy. It’s only 1.5 miles from the trailhead, so it’s a very popular stop. A lot of people were prepared to swim, and plenty were climbing over the slick rocks around the falls. I stopped for a bit, had a protein bar, and just relaxed.
From there, I continued on to Bullhead Lake. The hike was peaceful, easy, and practically empty — I was completely alone when I reached the lake. I wandered about halfway around it, took off my shoes, and dipped my feet into the clear, cold glacier water. It was a brilliant, quiet afternoon.
A funny thing happened on the way back — something that’s stuck with me ever since. An older gentleman stopped me and, in a slightly teasing tone, asked why I carried a backpack and what was in it. At first, I was confused, but I explained it carried my water bladder, some food, rain gear, dry socks if needed, and most importantly, emergency medical supplies. That’s when I realized he was messing with me — in a lighthearted way — which struck me as a little odd considering where we were.
Then he asked where I was coming from. When I told him Bullhead Lake (which was much farther than he was headed), he gave me a thumbs-up and moved on. Over the years, I’ve been stopped plenty of times on hikes and asked questions, but no one had ever poked fun at me for simply being prepared. It was a weird little interaction, but for some reason, it really stuck with me.
I couldn’t stop thinking about it on the hike back… until I realized I had completely forgotten to stop at Fisher Cap Lake. Oops.
Grinnell Lake & Hidden Falls Trail— Glacier National Park
I started this hike from the Many Glacier Hotel, but before hitting the trail, I had to pick up my Many Glacier Boat Company ferry ticket. Since the ticket office doesn’t open until 8:30 a.m., I couldn’t begin at my usual sunrise-preferred time. Still, I arrived around 7:30 a.m. to secure a parking spot and spend some time exploring the beautiful area around the hotel.
My plan was to hike out to Grinnell Lake and Hidden Falls, then take the ferry back to cut off the final two miles of this out-and-back trail. Since it retraces the same route on the return, I wasn’t missing anything new by doing that — and I love a good boat ride.
This is a popular trail, especially because it’s relatively flat and can be shortened by taking the ferry both ways. That turns the full 7.2-mile hike into a much more manageable 3.2-mile round trip. I chose to hike out and ferry back.
The trail itself was incredibly pleasant — flat, shaded, and surprisingly quiet given its popularity. I was really glad I did this hike before tackling the Grinnell Glacier Trail. Having already stood at the shores of Grinnell Lake made it even more awe-inspiring to see its turquoise beauty from above later on.
The weather wasn’t ideal, as you’ll see in my photos — it stayed overcast the entire time, though thankfully it didn’t rain. Still, I would love to repeat this hike on a sunny day when the lake’s color would really pop.
I also took the short spur trail to Hidden Falls. The falls were cool, but I couldn’t manage to get a good photo — they’re just tough to capture well.
Eventually, I found the ferry dock and enjoyed a relaxing ride back to the hotel. Overall, it was a lovely, low-effort hike with great scenery and an especially rewarding boat ride at the end. I’d definitely do it again — ideally with better weather next time.
Many Galcier Road
Some of the best photos from my trip were taken right from the road. I traveled Many Glacier Road every day—it’s the only way in and out of the Many Glacier Campground, Swiftcurrent Inn, the Many Glacier Hotel, and all the surrounding trailheads.
In the summer of 2022, the road was a mix of paved and unpaved sections. There is a ticket station along the way, though I never once saw it open. Surprisingly, I found great Wi-Fi at a pit toilet/pullout spot along Many Glacier Road, right on Swiftcurrent Lake—which also happens to be where I captured both of my favorite sunrise photos. I ended up going there most mornings at dawn. It became my peaceful, 10-minute escape from camp to catch the sunrise, check emails, and catch up on news from the day before.
I drove the entire length of Going-to-the-Sun Road four times and traveled portions of it almost every day. In 2022, you needed a ticket to access the road. I don’t recall if it was strictly timed entry or just required an entry permit—my ticket had "6 a.m." written on it.
Vehicle size and height limits are strictly enforced, and for good reason. The road is extremely narrow, with tight tunnels and steep drop-offs—no RVs or trailers allowed. Normally, roads like this have me white-knuckled the whole way, but not this time.
Why? I was prepared. Thanks to countless YouTube videos and GoPro footage, I knew exactly what to expect. What surprised me most was how few vehicles were actually on the road and how everyone obeyed the posted speed limits, even when that meant going 15 MPH in some sections.
With such narrow lanes, sharp drop-offs (sometimes 7+ stories down), and no sidewalks for the hikers and cyclists sharing the road, you don’t really have a choice. Everyone drove slowly and respectfully, which made navigating this famously dramatic road much easier than anticipated.
And the pullouts? Absolutely incredible. Each one offered a stunning, unique view—well worth stopping at every single one, as you’ll see from my photos.
On a few early mornings, I stopped by the St. Mary Visitor Center before it opened at 8 a.m.—mainly to use the Wi-Fi. At the time, I was juggling two real estate deals back home, so I needed to check email multiple times a day. It turns out, the area around the visitor center offered amazing views as well, making those quick check-ins not just practical, but beautiful.
I chose this hike because of its proximity to Fish Creek Campground and the Apgar Visitor Center. When I arrived at the Trail of the Cedars trailhead, the small lot was already full—which didn’t surprise me. Just behind it, though, was a larger parking area with picnic tables. A group of us were unsure if we were allowed to park there. We scoured the area for signage but found nothing saying we couldn’t—so I left the car and headed out.
Trail of the Cedars is a short, flat, and very popular walk. Honestly, I found it a bit underwhelming—especially after hiking through the cedars in Olympic National Park, which really set the bar high. Thankfully, Avalanche Lake Trail branches off from there and completely changed the experience.
Running on very little sleep, I found the 700-foot elevation gain tougher than it should have been. While it's not a particularly steep hike overall, the elevation is concentrated in parts, and I was dragging. But when I finally made it to Avalanche Lake, I was rewarded. The lake was stunning—serene, nestled among towering peaks, and absolutely worth the effort.
Since check-in at Many Glacier Campground wasn’t until after noon, I took my time at the lake. I lingered longer than usual, soaking in the scenery and giving my legs a break. I estimated it would take me about 90 minutes to drive to the campground and was hoping I wouldn’t run into a long line at check-in. Still, as much as I tried to enjoy the moment, my mind was elsewhere for most of the morning—logistics, sleep deprivation, and that nagging uncertainty of what lay ahead.
Maybe next time I hike to Avalanche Lake, I’ll be more present. More rested. And maybe I’ll finally be able to give that beautiful trail the attention it deserves.
Sharon@SharonRonkin.com / Cell 781-307-1293
Ronkin Realty Inc 148 Olive Ave Ext, Malden, MA 02148
Copyright © 2025 SharonRonkin.com - All Rights Reserved.