Yellowstone 2018

Experiencing Yellowstone was something I had always dreamed of—a faraway place you usually only hear about or see in books. But at some point, that dream shifted into a goal. I began researching and planning how to make it happen.

With limited funds, I quickly realized that hotels were either too expensive or too far from the park to be practical. That’s when I started seriously considering camping. But how do you camp when you're flying from Boston to Jackson Hole? What gear would I need? How could I make it as comfortable as possible?

I dove deep into camping blogs and library books—this was 2017, so YouTube and travel vlogs weren’t quite the treasure troves they are today. Still, I was determined. By late August 2018, H and I were on our way to Jackson Hole, ready to camp and explore Yellowstone National Park.

And what an adventure it was—absolutely unforgettable! But not without its share of mistakes.

First, I had completely underestimated altitude sickness. It hit us hard. The exhaustion and fatigue were relentless. I struggled to get out of bed in the mornings and even staying awake while driving became a challenge.

Second, I hadn’t planned well for the cold. It was the end of August, and while it was 95°F back home, it was barely 40°F at Grant Campground in the evenings. It even snowed on our last day there! Let’s just say I learned the hard way that a tent heater isn’t a luxury—it’s a necessity.

Despite everything, it truly was the trip of a lifetime. It marked the beginning of my travel journey. I didn’t take the best photos, I didn’t journal daily, and I didn’t organize my thoughts well—but I learned. I grew. And every trip since has been better because of it.

I will return to Yellowstone—this time with my portable oxygen concentrator, a tent heater, and a whole lot more experience.

Before visiting Yellowstone, I had no idea there was a Grand Canyon there. So you can imagine my astonishment when we stumbled upon something so immense, powerful, and breathtaking. We spent hours just wandering the overlooks, completely mesmerized by the raw beauty carved into the earth. Since we arrived early, parking was easy and the area still felt quiet. Back then, we didn’t know anything about hiking, so we stuck to the main paths—just wide-eyed and awestruck. I think this might have been the moment H began her now-famous “Unbelievable” mantra. 

We visited Mammoth Hot Springs on our last day in Yellowstone. It was a raw, wet day, but we made the two-hour drive anyway—and I’m so glad we did. Mammoth felt entirely different from every other place we’d seen in the park. I have a feeling that when I return to Yellowstone, this place will look completely different again—especially here. The colors were unlike those in the other geyser basins, likely because the springs sit atop limestone rather than rhyolite. In the cold drizzle, the terraces looked like steaming dry ice sculptures—otherworldly and mesmerizing. It was truly a marvel, and well worth the drive. 

Welcome to the Old Faithful area of Yellowstone National Park, also known as the Upper Geyser Basin—home to the largest concentration of geysers in the world. This area is so expansive that it's often divided into three sections: Biscuit Basin, Black Sand Basin, and the Old Faithful Area itself.

For reference, the National Park Service (NPS) website splits the Upper Geyser Basin into two main sections, and I’ll follow that structure here. I’ve also included NPS site maps in the photos for easy orientation.

We visited the Old Faithful area on our second day in the park. To our surprise—and delight—traffic was light that week. It took us less than 20 minutes to get there from Grant Campground.

There’s an overwhelming amount to see in the Upper Geyser Basin—steaming pools, colorful springs, and an endless network of boardwalks leading to geothermal wonders. Unfortunately, we were really struggling with altitude sickness and had very little energy. Even so, we managed to see Old Faithful erupt, and we explored most of the basin despite not feeling our best.

 One of the most popular spots between Grant Village and Yellowstone Lake is the West Thumb Geyser Basin—and since we were staying at Grant Campground, it was the first place we visited. To our surprise, we stumbled upon a ranger-led tour, and it turned out to be absolutely outstanding.

West Thumb is a unique and scenic geyser basin that overlooks Yellowstone Lake, the largest high-elevation lake in North America, sitting at over 8,000 feet. Some say Yellowstone Lake is the heart of the park—its waters acting as the lifeblood for a vast and diverse network of plants and wildlife.

You might assume that with all the hot springs and thermal activity feeding into the lake, the water would be warm in certain areas. But surprisingly, it remains a brisk 45°F—even with all that geothermal activity bubbling nearby.

I’ve always loved waterfalls, rapids, and really, any body of water. There’s something endlessly calming and powerful about moving water. Unfortunately, my photos didn’t quite capture the majesty of these places—but honestly, I was just glad I managed to stay awake behind the wheel with so much driving!

Gibbon Falls, located along the Gibbon River in northwestern Yellowstone, is an easy stop right off the Grand Loop Road—just 4.7 miles upstream from where the Gibbon and Firehole Rivers meet at Madison Junction. It drops about 84 feet and is actually a remnant of the Yellowstone caldera rim, formed by a colossal volcanic eruption around 631,000 years ago. Standing there, it’s humbling to think about the forces of nature that shaped this land.

Another favorite was Kepler Cascades, just a couple of miles south of Old Faithful. These cascades tumble down about 150 feet in total, with the longest single drop being 50 feet. Watching the Firehole River spill over the rock ledges in a series of graceful, energetic steps was mesmerizing.

And then there’s LeHardy Rapids on the Yellowstone River—the longest undammed river in the lower 48. In spring, if you’re lucky, you might catch sight of Yellowstone cutthroat trout leaping upstream here. These trout, once the most widespread native fish in the park, were vital to the ecosystem long before Euro-American settlement. Some geologists even consider LeHardy Rapids the northern boundary of Yellowstone Lake, as the rise and fall of the rapids seem to regulate the lake’s outflow.

Each of these places had a distinct energy—and while my camera may not have done them justice, the memories definitely left an impression.

By the time we made it to Norris Geyser Basin, we were deep in the throes of altitude sickness and had little energy left to explore. We managed a quick walk-through, but honestly, we were fading fast. At that point, we were starting to feel a bit of geyser fatigue—how many steaming pools and bubbling springs can you get truly excited about in one trip?

Still, Norris deserves respect. It’s the hottest and most geologically active thermal area in the park. A scientific drill once recorded a staggering 459°F (237°C) just over 1,000 feet below the surface. The basin is split into two sections: the stark, surreal Porcelain Basin and the more wooded, mysterious Back Basin. Norris sits at the intersection of three major faults and is one of the most seismically active spots in Yellowstone. It's wild, unpredictable, and always changing—maybe next time we’ll be better prepared to take it all in. (source NPS)
 

Midway Geyser Basin is technically part of the Lower Geyser Basin, but because of how it's laid out for visitors, it feels like it sits midway between the Upper and Lower Basins—at least, that’s how I understood it. The star attraction here is the Grand Prismatic Spring. The most stunning photos of it are taken from above, which unfortunately we weren’t able to do. But even from the boardwalk, it was spectacular. Don’t overlook the Opal Pool and the powerful Excelsior Geyser, which empties into the Firehole River in a dramatic rush of steaming water.

The day we visited was windy and in the 60s, and sadly, we saw several hats that had blown into the springs. It was disheartening—introducing foreign objects can seriously alter these fragile features. So if you go, be sure your hats (and anything else loose) are secure. The steam constantly fogged up my camera lens, but even so, it was an unforgettable experience—truly one-of-a-kind.

We didn’t spend much time at the Mud Volcano Basin. Yellowstone is massive, and by this point in our trip, we were admittedly a bit geysered-out. Still, it was worth a quick stop—especially for the smell, which is... unforgettable.

Mud Volcano Basin sits between Yellowstone Lake and Hayden Valley. It’s known for its strange, bubbling mudpots and its particularly pungent aroma, thanks to hydrogen sulfide gas—the same compound that gives rotten eggs their signature smell. These acidic mudpots form where water is limited, and the area’s unique microorganisms convert hydrogen sulfide into sulfuric acid, which breaks down surrounding rock into wet clay. The result is a gurgling, burping, grayish soup that’s constantly shifting with the seasons and rainfall.

What stood out to me—aside from the smell—was the eerie landscape. The hillsides are dotted with trees that look like they’ve been cooked from the inside out by underground steam. It’s also one of the most acidic hydrothermal areas in the park and lies near a spot where the Yellowstone Caldera’s floor is actively uplifting and sinking. With multiple fault lines converging here, earthquakes are common.

All in all, even though we didn’t linger long, the Mud Volcano area left an impression—strange, steamy, and just a little unsettling.

Lower Geyser Basin & Firehole Lake Drive – A Wonderland of Thermal Features

There was so much to see in the Lower Geyser Basin and the Firehole Lake Drive area that we ended up exploring for hours—both on foot and by car. The landscape is mesmerizing, and while I tried to capture it all, the pictures just don’t do it justice. Honestly, I think I’ll have to return to Yellowstone just to try for better photos. Eventually, I’ll share some of my video clips too—though fair warning, my camera didn’t have image stabilization!

Lower Geyser Basin / Fountain Paint Pot Trail

The Lower Geyser Basin is Yellowstone’s largest thermal basin by area, covering roughly 11 square miles—compared to just one square mile for the Upper Geyser Basin. Because it’s so spread out, the geothermal features appear in widely spaced clusters, each one unique and fascinating.

One of the most accessible and impressive of these clusters is the Fountain Paint Pot area. The short boardwalk trail here takes about 30 minutes to walk and is a must-see. Along this loop, you’ll encounter nearly every type of hydrothermal feature Yellowstone is known for. The area is always active, and you’re almost guaranteed to witness a geyser eruption during your visit. It’s a compact trail but packed with variety.

Parking can be a challenge, especially during busy times, but it’s absolutely worth the effort. Don’t let a full lot turn you away—just circle back.

Great Fountain Geyser

Also located within the Lower Geyser Basin is Great Fountain Geyser, one of Yellowstone’s few predictable geysers—and the only predicted geyser that’s accessible by car. Eruption times are posted daily at the Old Faithful Visitor Center and, when staffing allows, near the geyser itself. If you time it right, it’s an unforgettable sight, especially as the sun sets across the Firehole River plain.

Firehole Lake Drive

Don’t miss the scenic Firehole Lake Drive, a one-way loop that winds past some beautiful—and lesser-known—thermal features. It’s a quieter way to experience the geyser basin, and the drive itself is dotted with colorful pools, steam vents, and occasional eruptions. It’s great for those who want to experience the park’s wonders without hiking far.